After 2 1/2 years of forced confinement on Taiwan, it was time to ease myself back into expedition mode with a gentle July journey through upper India - three weeks of slow travel south from Himalayan Ladakh to the lush greenery of Madhya Pradesh. A gentle prelude to a demanding August visit to Kyrgyzstan for my debut trip to central Asia. Staying in yurts in the ranges of the Tien Shan mountains, there were long days with the herders grazing their animals in the high summer pastures. Bookended by side trips to local markets, the culminating highlight of the journey was the magnificent Salburun festival showcasing Kyrgyz dress, culture and horsemanship, an event held fittingly below the snow capped peaks of the Chunkurchak valley.